From Beast Mode to Base Notes: The Complete Fragrance Dictionary
Every term, phrase, and piece of perfume jargon you'll encounter—decoded. From industry-standard terminology to the slang that lives on Reddit and TikTok, consider this your definitive reference guide.
The world of fragrance comes with its own language—part French, part chemistry, part internet culture. Whether you're trying to decode a perfume's marketing copy, follow along with fragrance reviewers, or simply understand what you're buying, this glossary has you covered.
We've organized terms into categories for easier navigation, but you can also use Ctrl+F (or Cmd+F on Mac) to search for specific words.
Concentration & Formulation
Eau Fraîche
The lightest fragrance concentration, containing 1-3% aromatic compounds in a water and alcohol base. Refreshing but fleeting—expect 1-2 hours of wear at most. Ideal for a quick refresh, not a signature scent.
Eau de Cologne (EDC)
A light concentration of 2-4% fragrance oils. Despite the name's masculine associations, cologne is simply a concentration level, not a gendered category. Traditional colognes are often citrus-forward and last 2-3 hours.
Eau de Toilette (EDT)
The most common concentration for designer fragrances, containing 5-15% fragrance oils. Expect 3-5 hours of wear. EDTs are typically brighter and lighter than their EDP counterparts of the same fragrance.
Eau de Parfum (EDP)
A richer concentration of 15-20% fragrance oils, offering 5-8 hours of wear. Many fragrances are released in both EDT and EDP versions—the EDP will smell denser and project more strongly.
Extrait de Parfum / Parfum / Pure Parfum
The highest concentration available, containing 20-40% fragrance oils. A small amount goes a long way, and these can last 8-12+ hours. The scent profile is typically deeper and more intimate than lighter concentrations. Tuoksu offers extrait de parfum formulations at 18-23% concentration—the kind of concentration typically reserved for luxury pricing.
Concentration
The percentage of aromatic compounds (fragrance oils) dissolved in the alcohol and water base. Higher concentration generally means stronger scent and longer wear—but also higher price.
Juice
Informal term for the fragrance liquid itself. "Great juice" means the fragrance smells good; "cheap juice" suggests poor quality ingredients.
Compound
The completed, concentrated perfume formula before it's diluted with alcohol and water for the final product.
The Fragrance Pyramid
Notes
The individual scent components that make up a fragrance. Notes are the building blocks—bergamot, rose, sandalwood, vanilla, etc. A fragrance typically contains 30-60 different notes working together.
Top Notes (Head Notes)
The scents you smell immediately upon application. These are light, volatile molecules that evaporate within 5-30 minutes. Common top notes include citrus (bergamot, lemon), light herbs (basil, mint), and some aldehydes. Top notes create first impressions but don't last.
Heart Notes (Middle Notes)
The core of the fragrance, emerging as top notes fade (usually 15-30 minutes after application) and lasting 2-4 hours. Heart notes define the fragrance's character. Common examples include florals (rose, jasmine), fruits (peach, berries), and spices (cardamom, cinnamon).
Base Notes (Bottom Notes / Dry-Down Notes)
The heaviest, longest-lasting molecules that emerge after 30+ minutes and can linger for 8+ hours. Base notes provide depth and longevity. Common examples include woods (sandalwood, cedar), musks, resins (amber, benzoin), and vanilla.
Dry-Down
The final stage of a fragrance's evolution on skin, typically 2+ hours after application, when only the base notes remain. The dry-down is often considered the "true" character of a fragrance—what you'll be smelling most of the day.
Development
How a fragrance changes over time as different notes emerge and fade. A fragrance with good development tells a story; what you smell at hour one is different from hour four.
Linear
A fragrance that doesn't change much from application to dry-down. The opening smells essentially the same as the base. Not inherently good or bad—some people prefer consistency, others prefer evolution.
Performance Terms
Longevity
How long a fragrance lasts on skin before fading completely. Can range from 2 hours (light EDTs) to 12+ hours (beast mode extraits). Affected by concentration, skin type, weather, and individual chemistry.
Projection
How far a fragrance radiates from your skin in the first few hours of wear. Strong projection means people can smell you from several feet away; weak projection stays close to your body.
Sillage
French for "wake" (as in a boat's wake). The scent trail you leave behind as you move through a space—how long your fragrance lingers in the air after you've left the room. Related to but distinct from projection.
Skin Scent
A fragrance that stays very close to the skin, detectable only when someone is quite near you. Often considered intimate and personal. The opposite of a projecting fragrance.
Beast Mode
Fragrance community slang for scents with exceptional projection, sillage, and longevity. A beast mode fragrance announces your presence, lasts all day, and requires only 1-2 sprays. The term originated in gaming/sports culture and was adopted by fragrance YouTubers in the early 2020s.
Nose-Blind (Olfactory Fatigue)
When you can no longer smell your own fragrance because your nose has adapted to it. This doesn't mean the fragrance has faded—others can still smell you. This is why you shouldn't keep reapplying throughout the day.
Fragrance Families & Categories
Floral
Fragrances dominated by flower notes—rose, jasmine, lily, peony, tuberose, etc. The largest and most diverse family, ranging from single-flower soliflores to complex bouquets.
Oriental (Amber)
Rich, warm, often sweet or spicy fragrances featuring notes like amber, vanilla, resins, and warming spices. Typically sensual and evening-appropriate. Some in the industry are moving away from "Oriental" toward "Amber" as the category name.
Woody
Fragrances built on wood notes—sandalwood, cedar, oud, vetiver, guaiac. Can range from soft and creamy (sandalwood) to dry and smoky (vetiver, birch).
Fresh
Bright, clean, often citrus or aquatic fragrances. Includes ozonic/marine scents (sea salt, ocean air), citrus (bergamot, lemon), and green notes (grass, leaves). Popular for daytime and warm weather.
Fougère
French for "fern" (though they don't actually smell like ferns). Built on a structure of lavender, coumarin (hay-like sweetness), and oakmoss. Traditionally masculine but increasingly unisex. Think classic barbershop scents.
Chypre
Named after the French word for Cyprus. Built on bergamot top notes, a floral heart, and an oakmoss/labdanum/patchouli base. Complex, sophisticated, often described as "grown-up" fragrances.
Gourmand
Food-inspired fragrances featuring edible notes like vanilla, chocolate, coffee, caramel, honey, and praline. Can overlap with orientals but tends sweeter and more playful.
Aromatic
Fragrances featuring herbs like lavender, rosemary, sage, and basil. Often combined with citrus or woody notes. Common in men's fragrances.
Leather
Fragrances evoking leather through natural extracts or synthetic molecules. Can range from soft suede to smoky, rugged hide.
Aquatic (Marine / Ozonic)
Fresh fragrances evoking water, ocean, and clean air. Created largely through synthetic molecules like Calone. Popular since the 1990s.
Key Ingredients & Accords
Accord
Like a chord in music—a blend of notes that combine to create a distinct, unified scent that smells like something else entirely. Leather, for example, isn't distilled from actual leather; it's an accord of other ingredients that together evoke leather.
Amber
Not related to fossilized tree resin. In perfumery, amber is an accord typically built from labdanum, vanilla, and benzoin, creating a warm, sweet, slightly powdery scent. The cornerstone of oriental fragrances.
Ambergris
A waxy substance produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. Extremely rare and expensive, with a unique warm, sweet, oceanic scent. Almost always synthetic in modern perfumery due to cost and ethics.
Musk
Originally derived from musk deer glands (now illegal to harvest). Modern musks are synthetic and come in varieties: white musk (clean, soapy), skin musk (soft, intimate), and animalic musk (darker, earthier). Musks are fixatives that help fragrances last longer.
Oud (Agarwood)
One of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery. Oud comes from agarwood trees infected with a specific mold, which causes them to produce a dark, aromatic resin. The scent is complex—woody, animalic, smoky, sometimes medicinal. Most "oud" fragrances use synthetic reconstructions.
Sandalwood
A creamy, soft, woody note. True Indian Mysore sandalwood is increasingly rare and expensive; Australian sandalwood and synthetics are common alternatives. A popular base note that's warm without being heavy.
Bergamot
A small, inedible citrus fruit grown primarily in Calabria, Italy. Its oil provides a fresh, slightly floral citrus note found in Earl Grey tea. One of the most commonly used top notes in perfumery.
Vetiver
A grass whose roots produce an earthy, woody, slightly smoky essential oil. Can smell clean or dirty depending on processing and combination with other notes. A versatile ingredient used in everything from fresh to heavy fragrances.
Patchouli
A plant in the mint family with a distinctive earthy, woody, slightly sweet scent. Once associated with hippie culture, now a staple in modern perfumery. Can smell musty or rich depending on quality and combination.
Tonka Bean
A seed with a warm, sweet, vanilla-like aroma with hints of almond and hay (due to its coumarin content). A common base note that adds warmth and sweetness without pure vanilla's intensity.
Labdanum
A sticky resin from rockrose plants, used as an amber and ambergris substitute. Provides a warm, sweet, slightly animalic depth. A key ingredient in amber accords.
Benzoin
A balsamic resin from styrax trees with a warm, vanilla-like, slightly powdery scent. Used in base notes to add sweetness and longevity.
Orris (Iris)
Derived from the root of the iris flower, aged for years before use. One of the most expensive natural ingredients, with a powdery, violet-like, earthy scent. Even small amounts add refinement and depth.
Aldehydes
A class of synthetic molecules that add sparkle, lift, and a "fizzy" quality to fragrances. Made famous by Chanel No. 5. Higher-numbered aldehydes (C-14 and up) add fruity notes; lower numbers add brightness.
Animalic
Refers to notes traditionally derived from animals (musk, civet, castoreum, ambergris) that add depth, warmth, and a primal quality. Almost all are synthetic in modern perfumery. Can smell musky, leathery, or slightly "dirty" in a compelling way.
Civet
A secretion from the civet cat's glands. In its raw form, it's aggressively fecal; diluted, it becomes warm and sensual. Almost always synthetic now. Used in small amounts to add depth and animalic warmth.
Castoreum
An oily secretion from beaver glands (yes, really). Smells warm, leathery, and slightly sweet. Mostly synthetic now. A traditional ingredient in leather and oriental fragrances.
Coumarin
A molecule found naturally in tonka beans, hay, and lavender. Smells sweet, warm, and hay-like. An important component of fougère fragrances.
Production & Quality Terms
Natural
Ingredients derived from natural sources (plants, animals, minerals) rather than synthesized in a laboratory. "Natural" doesn't automatically mean better—many naturals have safety restrictions, and synthetics can be more consistent, sustainable, and sometimes smell closer to the real thing.
Synthetic
Ingredients created through chemical processes rather than extracted from nature. Most modern fragrances rely heavily on synthetics, which allow for consistent quality, novel scents impossible to create naturally, and often better sustainability.
Absolute
A highly concentrated fragrance oil extracted from plant material using solvents. More concentrated than essential oils and used for delicate materials (jasmine, tuberose) that can't survive steam distillation.
Essential Oil
The volatile, aromatic essence extracted from plant material through steam distillation or cold pressing. The foundation of aromatherapy and a key component of natural perfumery.
Concrete
A waxy, semi-solid substance obtained by solvent extraction of fresh plant material. Concretes are further processed to create absolutes.
Enfleurage
An ancient, labor-intensive extraction method where flowers are pressed into fat, which absorbs their fragrance. The fat is then washed with alcohol to capture the scent. Rarely used today due to cost.
Expression (Cold Pressing)
An extraction method used primarily for citrus oils, where the peel is mechanically pressed to release its aromatic oils. Preserves the fresh, true scent of the fruit.
Steam Distillation
The most common method for extracting essential oils. Plant material is exposed to steam, which carries the volatile aromatic compounds, then condensed back into liquid.
Maceration
The aging of perfume concentrates in their alcohol solution, allowing the ingredients to marry and mellow. Like aging wine, maceration can significantly improve a fragrance's smoothness and cohesion.
Nose (Perfumer)
The professional who creates fragrances by combining raw materials according to artistic and technical principles. Many noses have advanced chemistry degrees and years of training. "The nose behind this fragrance" means the perfumer who created it.
House
The brand or company that produces and markets fragrances. "What houses do you like?" means "What fragrance brands do you prefer?"
Flanker
A variation on an existing fragrance, often with a modifier like "Intense," "Noir," "Absolut," or seasonal variations. Flankers share DNA with the original but alter the formula for a different take.
IFRA (International Fragrance Association)
The industry body that sets safety standards for fragrance ingredients, including maximum concentrations for potentially allergenic materials. IFRA restrictions have caused reformulations of many classic fragrances.
Reformulation
When a fragrance's formula is changed, often due to ingredient restrictions (IFRA regulations), cost, or supply issues. Reformulations range from unnoticeable to dramatic. A frequent topic of debate among fragrance enthusiasts.
Shopping & Collecting Terms
Blind Buy
Purchasing a fragrance without having smelled it first. Risky but sometimes unavoidable with online-only brands or discontinued fragrances. Not recommended for beginners.
Decant
A small amount of fragrance transferred from the original bottle into a smaller vial, typically 2-10ml. Decants allow you to try expensive fragrances affordably or carry a smaller portion for travel. "Decanting" is the act of transferring the fragrance.
Split
When someone purchases a full bottle and sells portions (decants) to others at no profit, sharing the cost. Common in fragrance communities for expensive or hard-to-find bottles.
Sample
A small portion of fragrance, typically 1-2ml, used for testing. Many brands offer official samples; others require purchasing from decant services.
Discovery Set
A curated collection of samples from a single brand, allowing you to try multiple fragrances before committing to full bottles. An excellent way for beginners to explore.
Full Bottle (FB)
Exactly what it sounds like—a complete, retail-sized bottle of fragrance. "Going full bottle" means committing to a full purchase after sampling.
Full Presentation (FP)
A fragrance in its complete original packaging—box, bottle, cap, any included materials. Important for collectors and resale value.
Backup Bottle
A second (or third) bottle of a beloved fragrance, purchased in case of discontinuation or reformulation. Common among collectors who've been burned by discontinued favorites.
Signature Scent
A fragrance worn regularly enough to become associated with the wearer. What people think of when they think of how you smell.
Wardrobe (Fragrance Wardrobe / Collection)
The full range of fragrances someone owns. "Building a wardrobe" means acquiring fragrances for different occasions, seasons, and moods.
Holy Grail (HG)
A perfect fragrance for someone's preferences—the one they'd choose if they could only have one. Highly personal.
Scrubber
A fragrance so unpleasant to the wearer that they immediately wash it off. "This was a scrubber for me" means "I hated it and had to remove it."
Dumb Reach
A fragrance that's easy, versatile, and reliable—the one you grab without thinking when you don't know what else to wear.
Designer
Fragrances from fashion houses and mainstream brands (Chanel, Dior, Gucci, etc.). Generally widely available, moderately priced, and designed for broad appeal.
Niche
Fragrances from brands focused primarily or exclusively on perfume (Byredo, Le Labo, Amouage, etc.). Often more expensive, more unusual, and aimed at fragrance enthusiasts rather than mass market.
Indie
Small, independent fragrance brands, often operated by a single perfumer or small team. Can offer unique, artistic scents at various price points.
Dupe
A fragrance designed to smell similar to a more expensive one. Ranges from blatant copies to "inspired by" interpretations. Quality varies dramatically.
Clone
Similar to a dupe—a fragrance specifically made to replicate another, usually expensive, fragrance.
Batch Code
A code on the bottle or box indicating when and where a fragrance was produced. Some enthusiasts hunt specific batches, believing older batches of reformulated fragrances are superior.
Vintage
Older bottles of fragrance, typically pre-reformulation. Vintage hunting is common for classics that have been significantly changed. Comes with risks (degradation, fakes).
Discontinued (DC)
A fragrance no longer in production. Discontinued fragrances can become rare and expensive on the secondary market.
Subjective Descriptors
Powdery
A soft, dry, cosmetic quality often associated with iris/orris, violet, and certain musks. Can evoke makeup, baby powder, or dry florals.
Creamy
A smooth, rich, sometimes milky quality. Often from sandalwood, coconut, or certain musks.
Soapy
Clean, fresh, sometimes sudsy qualities that evoke soap or just-washed skin. Can be intentional (clean fragrances) or a criticism (too simple).
Green
Fresh notes evoking leaves, grass, stems, or unripe vegetation. Can be sharp and herbal or soft and dewy.
Spicy
Warm or hot notes from ingredients like pepper, cinnamon, cardamom, ginger, or clove. "Spicy" in perfumery usually means warming spices, not "hot sauce" spicy.
Boozy
Notes evoking alcohol—rum, whiskey, cognac, wine. Often sweet and warming.
Smoky
Notes evoking smoke, fire, incense, or charred materials. Can come from birch tar, cade, certain ouds, or smoke accords.
Animalic
See Ingredients section. In descriptive terms, refers to a warm, musky, slightly "dirty" quality that adds depth and sensuality.
Clean
Fresh, hygienic-smelling fragrances evoking just-showered skin, fresh laundry, or soap. A major trend in recent years.
Dirty
The opposite of clean—fragrances with animalic, earthy, or funky qualities that some find compelling and others find off-putting. Not an insult in fragrance circles.
Sweet
High sugar/candy-like qualities. Can be from vanilla, praline, fruits, or certain florals like heliotrope.
Cloying
Excessively sweet, heavy, or rich to the point of being nauseating or headache-inducing. Always a criticism.
Airy
Light, transparent, ethereal quality. The fragrance equivalent of sheer fabric.
Dense
Thick, heavy, rich quality. The opposite of airy.
Sharp
Bright, piercing, sometimes aggressive top notes. Can be from citrus, green notes, or certain aldehydes.
Soft
Gentle, quiet, non-aggressive. A fragrance that doesn't demand attention.
Loud
Strong projection and sillage. A fragrance that announces your presence.
Heady
Intoxicating, dizzying, sometimes overwhelming. Often applied to heavy florals like tuberose and jasmine.
Office-Safe
A fragrance appropriate for professional environments—not too strong, not too unusual, not likely to offend coworkers.
Compliment-Getter
A fragrance that frequently generates positive comments from others. Subjective but certain fragrances (often crowd-pleasers with vanilla, amber, or fresh notes) have this reputation.
Community Slang
PerfumeTok / FragranceTok
The fragrance-focused corner of TikTok, where creators review, recommend, and discuss scents.
Fraghead / Fragrancehead
Someone deeply interested in fragrance—a fragrance enthusiast or collector.
Nose-Blind
See Olfactory Fatigue above. Common community shorthand for no longer being able to smell your own fragrance.
"This one hits different"
Internet slang meaning a fragrance is exceptionally good or effective.
Compliments
When others comment positively on your fragrance. "Getting compliments" is a major goal for some fragrance wearers.
"It pulls [X] on me"
How a note or fragrance reads on someone's skin. "It pulls sweet on me" means the sweet notes are emphasized by their skin chemistry.
Death by Reformulation
Dramatic term for when a beloved fragrance is reformulated into something significantly worse.
Fragrancedrobe
Portmanteau of fragrance + wardrobe. Your collection of fragrances.
SOTD (Scent of the Day)
What someone is wearing today. Common in fragrance communities for daily sharing.
SOTE (Scent of the Evening)
Evening fragrance choice, for those who change scents for nighttime.
SOTN (Scent of the Night)
Bedtime fragrance or overnight scent.
NBD (New Bottle Day)
Celebrating receiving a new fragrance purchase.
ISO (In Search Of)
Looking for a specific fragrance, often discontinued or hard to find.
FS (Full Size)
A complete, retail-sized bottle.
BN / BNIB (Brand New / Brand New In Box)
Indicates an unopened, unused fragrance with original packaging.
A Note on Subjectivity
Fragrance is deeply personal. A note that smells like "warm cashmere" to one person might smell like "old lady's closet" to another. Descriptors are guidelines, not facts. Your skin chemistry, associations, and preferences will determine what any fragrance smells like to you.
The best way to learn fragrance vocabulary is to smell widely and consciously. Pay attention to what you're smelling. Try to identify individual notes. Compare similar fragrances. Over time, you'll develop your own vocabulary—and your own preferences.