How Suzy Le Helley Shaped the Fragrance Identity of Acne Studios - TUOKSU

How Suzy Le Helley Shaped the Fragrance Identity of Acne Studios

Acne Studios recently unveiled its first gourmand perfume, forged in collaboration with renowned nose Frédéric Malle and the talented Suzy Le Helley. This fragrance, named "Acne Studios par Frédéric Malle by Suzy Le Helley," possesses an aldehydic touch, blending rose, peach, vanilla, sandalwood, and musk into a vibrant, magnetic, and radical profile.

This landmark collaboration not only highlights Acne Studios' innovative spirit but also introduces a unique olfactory experience to the fragrance industry. Together, Frédéric Malle and Suzy Le Helley have shaped a scent that promises to define Acne Studios' fragrance identity, setting a new benchmark for future projects.

Early Life and Career Beginnings

Suzy Le Helley's journey into the world of fragrances began early and is marked by a blend of passion, education, and innovation. Born with a keen sense of smell and a natural inclination towards botany, Le Helley's decision to become a professional perfumer crystallized during her high school years, around 2008. Her academic path was strategically charted towards this goal, leading her to enroll at ISIPCA in 2012, France’s premier graduate school for aspiring perfumers.

Academic and Professional Training

  1. ISIPCA Education: Starting in 2012, Suzy immersed herself in the intensive study of fragrances at ISIPCA, which is known for shaping many leading noses in the perfume industry.
  2. Mane Fragrance Evaluator: She worked as a fragrance evaluator at Mane, honing her ability to discern and evaluate complex scent compositions.
  3. Symrise Perfume School: In 2014, her quest for deeper knowledge took her to Symrise’s internal perfume school in Holzminden, Germany, where she spent four years mastering both the creative and technical aspects of perfumery.

Professional Milestones

  • Return to Paris: Post her education in Germany, Suzy returned to Paris in 2018 and joined Symrise’s Paris team. Here, she engaged in regulatory reformulation and the development of Philyra (AI), marking significant advancements in the use of artificial intelligence in perfumery.
  • Natural Ingredients Exploration: Le Helley also played a crucial role in sourcing and developing natural raw materials, such as vetiver, mandarin, and fresh green pepper from Madagascar, integrating these into innovative fragrance formulas.

Suzy Le Helley’s early career is characterized by a rigorous blend of academic excellence and practical experience underpinned by her passion for both natural and synthetic materials. Her approach to perfumery—favoring short, precise, and clear formulas—ensures that each ingredient she uses is carefully selected to convey a distinct message, setting the stage for her future successes in the fragrance industry.

Signature Style and Creative Process

Suzy Le Helley's approach to perfumery is distinguished by her ability to blend traditional and modern elements, creating timeless and innovative fragrances. Her signature style is evident in the perfume crafted for Acne Studios in collaboration with Frédéric Malle, where she introduces a complex interplay of aldehydes and gourmand notes, setting a new standard in the fragrance industry.

Vision and Inspiration

Le Helley's vision for her creations is to bridge the classic with the contemporary. Inspired by the diversity of plants and the rich world of scents encountered during her travels, she integrates these experiences into her perfumery work. Her deep-rooted passion for botany and synthetic materials plays a crucial role in her creative process, allowing her to experiment and innovate continuously.

Olfactive Signature

Her obsession with aldehydes brings a fresh, dazzling quality to her perfumes, reminiscent of the golden era of perfumery yet distinctly modern. This aldehydic signature is skillfully paired with a heart of gourmand notes, as seen in her work for Acne Studios, creating a perfume that is both comforting and strikingly novel.

Creative Process

Le Helley's method involves a meticulous process of carefully choosing and balancing each ingredient to convey a clear, coherent message. She emphasizes the importance of technical mastery in service to aesthetic and emotional expression, striving for perfumes that resonate deeply with wearers while maintaining clarity and precision in their composition.

Philosophical Approach

Her philosophy centers on the creation of perfumes that are inspired by nature yet crafted with a high degree of technical skill. The result is a line of fragrances that are not only evocative and emotionally engaging but also clear and precise in their olfactory message. This philosophy is vividly expressed in her collaboration with Acne Studios and Frédéric Malle, where the fusion of aldehydes, floral notes, and hints of incense creates a innovative and deeply resonant scent.

Collaboration with Frédéric Malle for Acne Studios

Vision and Concept Development

Suzy Le Helley and Frédéric Malle's partnership for Acne Studios began with a mutual admiration and a shared vision to blend art, fashion, and perfumery. Inspired by Acne Studios' founder, Jonny Johansson's creative inputs, the fragrance was envisioned to capture the essence of fresh laundry, marrying classical French perfumery with modern, irreverent twists.

Crafting the Scent

The development process was intensely collaborative and innovative, involving hundreds of trials over less than eight months. The final scent profile includes aldehydes for a crisp introduction, a heart of rose and peach for a floral touch, and a base of vanilla and sandalwood, creating a complex yet harmonious fragrance.

Product Launch and Availability

Scheduled for release on April 17, 2024, "Acne Studios by Frédéric Malle" will be available at Acne Studios boutiques and on The perfume will be offered in two sizes, with a thoughtful approach to packaging, featuring hand-sewn, repurposed textiles, emphasizing sustainability and luxury.

Marketing and Customer Engagement

To enhance customer experience, Editions de Parfums will offer complimentary delivery for purchases over 50€, free returns, and a unique perfume finder feature online. This approach not only celebrates the artistry behind the fragrance but also ensures it reaches a global audience ready to experience the innovative spirit of this collaboration.

Impact and Future Projects

The fragrance industry is witnessing a significant transformation, influenced by technological advancements and shifts towards sustainability. Eurofragance's impressive 20% sales increase in 2023 exemplifies the sector's growth and adaptation to new market demands. This surge is partly attributed to the integration of lab-grown ingredients and artificial intelligence in perfume making.

Technological Advancements in Perfumery

  1. Lab-Grown Ingredients: These sustainable alternatives are revolutionizing the industry by providing ethical options that do not compromise on quality.
  2. Artificial Intelligence: AI is not only crafting new fragrances but also enhancing consumer interaction and optimizing supply chains, ensuring a more personalized and efficient market approach.

These innovations are setting a new standard for future projects within the industry, promising a blend of tradition and modernity that will continue to enchant and engage consumers worldwide.


A narrative of creativity, passion, and forward-thinking unfolds throughout the exploration of Suzy Le Helley’s innovative journey and the pioneering collaboration with Frédéric Malle for Acne Studios. The fragrance “Acne Studios par Frédéric Malle by Suzy Le Helley” showcases not just a fusion of exceptional scent profiles but also marks a significant stride in defining the olfactory identity of Acne Studios. This venture echoes the broader implications of modern perfumery’s evolution, where tradition meets innovation, emphasizing sustainability, technological advancements, and the artistic integration of synthetic and natural materials.

The significance of such collaborations extends beyond the realms of fragrance, impacting fashion, technology, and environmental sustainability, thereby setting a new benchmark for future endeavors in the industry. As the fragrance world continues to adapt and grow, the insights gained from this partnership between Le Helley, Malle, and Acne Studios illuminate the path toward a more dynamic, sustainable, and artistically rich future. Their work enriches our sensory experience and challenges and inspires the fragrance community to pursue innovation with intention and integrity.


Acne Studios' innovative spirit also introduces a unique olfactory experience to the fragrance industry. Together, Frédéric Malle and Suzy Le Helley have shaped a scent that promises to define Acne Studios' fragrance identity.

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